Damanhur main buildiing welcomes visitors and houses them on the second floor: a dormitory style with a kitchen area for all to use. No AC but the nights were cool Platapus at the left was our tour guide. Italian, but English speaking, he spoke mostly with his hands. He was a good guide.
www.damanhur.org For an eagle (or a very hardy crow), the distance from Zermatt to Damanhur, Italy is only about 40-50 km; for us more earthbound creatures, though, it's about four times that, via the ultra-spectacular Simplon Pass, which features several kilometers of tunnels open on one side for ventilation and view. A few km down the other side, we finally reached the Italian frontier, where we were once again simply waved through – Homeland Security must be appalled at how open the borders are here since the European Union was formed.
One last note about Switzerland: at Simplon Pass itself, where we had lunch, there is an enormous (about 20 m tall) statue of an Eagle, honoring the Swiss Brigades who kept the country neutral during World War II; just a reminder that for all its friendliness, Switzerland is not a country you'd want to mess with!
Once we crossed into Italy, things felt very different. The roads (except for the Autostrade) become narrow, and then they narrow again and when you think they can't there's a sign indicating they narrow yet again. Thank GOD for good tires because there are no shoulders at all! There were times I (L) had to be really careful not to stick the camera out the window because it would have been knocked out of my hand! Time extends, and the general vibe shifts from 'practical' to 'old'. There were few if any abandoned buildings in France and Switzerland. Not so in Italy. The vibe changed. Time seems halted somehow. Language also becomes an issue for the first time, as neither of us has even a basic proficiency in Italian. Despite this, Jeeves does manage to guide us to Damanhur (about 40km north of Torino) with a minimum of fuss. Thank GOD for Jeeves the GPS, who is very accurate about every roundabout - and there are many.
Italians are not in a hurry for anything except meals, or when they are in a car or on a motorcycle. Motorcycles were very prevalent in Italy; on the highways they pass very dangerously and are able to hug the center line to pass when you think 'surely they won't do that' (screaming in the background) on a 12% downward grade with a stiff curve coming into yet another tunnel. The mountains on this trip are Swiss cheese, full of holes! We lost count of tunnels long ago.
The Damanhur welcome was friendly despite the welcome center being a busy place. Our welcome was a bit confused - they thought we were coming a day later. It was difficult to get communication going with them (telephone, fax and email were not very effective, and hand signals don't work very well across an ocean). Fortunately they were accommodating and we have a dorm style room clean and nice with Swiss style showers, with doors that meet at the corner. (A study of how many different kinds of plumbing there are in the world would be fascinating!) We were given a guided tour to know where not to go and what to do. Tomorrow we will get to go to the underground temples and we get to meditate in two of the halls. We are well, though tired.
During the evening, we spoke with members of an intergenerational group who is visiting here. They are studying sustainable communities, had just come from one in Portugal and will travel to Findhorn next. I introduced myself as Lyneah; Will, one of the travellers, thought I was someone coming who had sponsored their group's activities. Interesting. Never heard of the name before and here someone was coming the next day by that name. Yet another unusual end to what is shaping up as a most unusual journey.
One last note about Switzerland: at Simplon Pass itself, where we had lunch, there is an enormous (about 20 m tall) statue of an Eagle, honoring the Swiss Brigades who kept the country neutral during World War II; just a reminder that for all its friendliness, Switzerland is not a country you'd want to mess with!
Once we crossed into Italy, things felt very different. The roads (except for the Autostrade) become narrow, and then they narrow again and when you think they can't there's a sign indicating they narrow yet again. Thank GOD for good tires because there are no shoulders at all! There were times I (L) had to be really careful not to stick the camera out the window because it would have been knocked out of my hand! Time extends, and the general vibe shifts from 'practical' to 'old'. There were few if any abandoned buildings in France and Switzerland. Not so in Italy. The vibe changed. Time seems halted somehow. Language also becomes an issue for the first time, as neither of us has even a basic proficiency in Italian. Despite this, Jeeves does manage to guide us to Damanhur (about 40km north of Torino) with a minimum of fuss. Thank GOD for Jeeves the GPS, who is very accurate about every roundabout - and there are many.
Italians are not in a hurry for anything except meals, or when they are in a car or on a motorcycle. Motorcycles were very prevalent in Italy; on the highways they pass very dangerously and are able to hug the center line to pass when you think 'surely they won't do that' (screaming in the background) on a 12% downward grade with a stiff curve coming into yet another tunnel. The mountains on this trip are Swiss cheese, full of holes! We lost count of tunnels long ago.
The Damanhur welcome was friendly despite the welcome center being a busy place. Our welcome was a bit confused - they thought we were coming a day later. It was difficult to get communication going with them (telephone, fax and email were not very effective, and hand signals don't work very well across an ocean). Fortunately they were accommodating and we have a dorm style room clean and nice with Swiss style showers, with doors that meet at the corner. (A study of how many different kinds of plumbing there are in the world would be fascinating!) We were given a guided tour to know where not to go and what to do. Tomorrow we will get to go to the underground temples and we get to meditate in two of the halls. We are well, though tired.
During the evening, we spoke with members of an intergenerational group who is visiting here. They are studying sustainable communities, had just come from one in Portugal and will travel to Findhorn next. I introduced myself as Lyneah; Will, one of the travellers, thought I was someone coming who had sponsored their group's activities. Interesting. Never heard of the name before and here someone was coming the next day by that name. Yet another unusual end to what is shaping up as a most unusual journey.
Damanhur has its own money. If you aren't a rare coin collector, you might want to check your money before you go and exchange Damhurian coins for Euros.
Day 4 - Damanhur Temple Tour
Damanhur is an intentional community started in the mid-to-late '70s by a group researching spiritual concepts in Torino. One person donated some land and they began exploring community living. One night there was a shooting star and they decided they could start some project. They built underground temples that are amazing. Mostly the work was started in secret even from those in the community who were not central and trusted. Eventually some who left told the officials of the town that evil things were happening there. A judge came with police demanding entrance and Falco the leader invited them in. Upon leaving the Judge had tears in his eyes and condoned the project. They are now a community of multiple centers totaling 600 members. We stayed in the welcoming center building at a cost of 22 E for the night in a dorm style floor complete with kitchen. It was occupied by a group of people working something through. We mentioned them earlier - the ones on the intergenerational quest.
In the morning we went on a full grounds tour and then up to the community store / gallery / research facility, which carries wonderful organic foods and artwork. There was a town meeting but we didn't feel like being in a crowd and skipped it. It also cost 20 E. Everything here costs 10 E or more. They treat 20 E like we treat $10 and its value is more like $30. They had a great sorbetto; la dolce vita is alive and well here.
Our guide spoke with his hands - of course, he was Italian - and named Platypus. We went first into the Temple of the Earth. The temples are mosaic floors with many meanings and a central pillar decorated or sculpted and the ceilings are painted glass and the walls are amazing murals with realistic paintings of each person who is a member of the community included. The whole room is a representation of the third dimension of manifestation. Instruments were played while we sat on pillows meditating. Up the stairs was a room of the pre-manifestation – spiritual realm. It is also very complex and amazingly well done and artistic. The third room we experienced was dedicated to metals and the ages of mankind with a metal for each age. Very interesting. Again the faces were of real people in the community and by their pictures in two cases quite accurate. One window bay contained the ashes of one of the founders who posed for the image of the silver age.
That was all we could do in the time we had – there are eight other underground chambers in addition to the three we were able to visit. We left Damanhur and the roads through the rest of Italy - well, they are so what you hear about them. Amazingly narrow. People drive like they are possessed, especially if they are on motorcycles, which as we mentioned earlier, have the right to do almost anything, it seems.
Interestingly, given the frenzy on the roads, we saw almost no police throughout the countryside of France and Italy. Only in the cities. We did see a few police in Zermatt, but they were just standing the the middle of the street talking. Didn't seem concerned about anything. Mark is driving like a European, but a polite one. People are often surprised at his generosity of letting them in or stopping for pedestrians in crosswalks in cities. I drove a bit on the Autostrada in Italy, but was glad for Mark's skills on the lesser roads, some of which are main roads, but wow, they are narrow and without shoulders!
Mark commented that the US is in adolescence or maybe young adulthood, Europe is mature and Italy is in old age. He may be correct.
Day 4 - Damanhur Temple Tour
Damanhur is an intentional community started in the mid-to-late '70s by a group researching spiritual concepts in Torino. One person donated some land and they began exploring community living. One night there was a shooting star and they decided they could start some project. They built underground temples that are amazing. Mostly the work was started in secret even from those in the community who were not central and trusted. Eventually some who left told the officials of the town that evil things were happening there. A judge came with police demanding entrance and Falco the leader invited them in. Upon leaving the Judge had tears in his eyes and condoned the project. They are now a community of multiple centers totaling 600 members. We stayed in the welcoming center building at a cost of 22 E for the night in a dorm style floor complete with kitchen. It was occupied by a group of people working something through. We mentioned them earlier - the ones on the intergenerational quest.
In the morning we went on a full grounds tour and then up to the community store / gallery / research facility, which carries wonderful organic foods and artwork. There was a town meeting but we didn't feel like being in a crowd and skipped it. It also cost 20 E. Everything here costs 10 E or more. They treat 20 E like we treat $10 and its value is more like $30. They had a great sorbetto; la dolce vita is alive and well here.
Our guide spoke with his hands - of course, he was Italian - and named Platypus. We went first into the Temple of the Earth. The temples are mosaic floors with many meanings and a central pillar decorated or sculpted and the ceilings are painted glass and the walls are amazing murals with realistic paintings of each person who is a member of the community included. The whole room is a representation of the third dimension of manifestation. Instruments were played while we sat on pillows meditating. Up the stairs was a room of the pre-manifestation – spiritual realm. It is also very complex and amazingly well done and artistic. The third room we experienced was dedicated to metals and the ages of mankind with a metal for each age. Very interesting. Again the faces were of real people in the community and by their pictures in two cases quite accurate. One window bay contained the ashes of one of the founders who posed for the image of the silver age.
That was all we could do in the time we had – there are eight other underground chambers in addition to the three we were able to visit. We left Damanhur and the roads through the rest of Italy - well, they are so what you hear about them. Amazingly narrow. People drive like they are possessed, especially if they are on motorcycles, which as we mentioned earlier, have the right to do almost anything, it seems.
Interestingly, given the frenzy on the roads, we saw almost no police throughout the countryside of France and Italy. Only in the cities. We did see a few police in Zermatt, but they were just standing the the middle of the street talking. Didn't seem concerned about anything. Mark is driving like a European, but a polite one. People are often surprised at his generosity of letting them in or stopping for pedestrians in crosswalks in cities. I drove a bit on the Autostrada in Italy, but was glad for Mark's skills on the lesser roads, some of which are main roads, but wow, they are narrow and without shoulders!
Mark commented that the US is in adolescence or maybe young adulthood, Europe is mature and Italy is in old age. He may be correct.
My ankle was giving me major grief today probably due to the eating of brie and fantastic Swiss bread in Zermatt yesterday morning not to mention the outstanding boysenberry gelatto here today. I will be good the rest of the trip avoid milk products. It's so hard here because they are sooooo good.
Our welcome here in Cagnes-sur-Mer (about 10 km west of Nice) was also interesting. Communications problems again and our hostess didn't think we were coming, but accommodated us so sweetly. She is a wonderful woman. We are ready for sleep. Goodnight.
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